Yosemite Valley to Tuolumne Meadows via Clouds Rest
At last the much awaited wilderness outing had come after nearly a year of hard work and long hours on the new job. I have always wanted to hike from the Valley to Tuolumne Meadows and also hike up the narrow summit of Clouds Rest, now was the time to combine both.
The logistics were a bit complex — do we drive 2 cars and leave one at each trailhead? If so at what ungodly hour would we need to depart from home? What hiking mileage could we afford on day 1? Do we just drive 1 car and pay an arm and a leg for a taxi ride back into the valley?
Luckily our last hiking day was the 15th of June, the day that YARTs begins service between Tuolumne Meadows and the Valley. And so I bought tickets for the only shuttle that leaves Tuolumne Meadows at 10.30am. This meant packing up camp on the last day very early to make it down to the Tuolumne Meadows bus stop in time to catch the shuttle.
Our original plan was the following…
Day 1: Yosemite Valley to the Junction of the Forsyth trail and the John Muir Trail (JMT); Day 2: Continue to Clouds Rest and on to Sunrise Lakes via the Clouds Rest trail; Day 3: Rejoin the JMT at the Sunrise High Sierra camp over to Cathedral Lakes; Day 4: Continue on the JMT to Tuolumne Meadows
Things worked out a little differently towards the end, which I will discuss later.
Day 1: Yosemite Valley Visitors Center to JMT/Forsyth Intersection (Approx 12mi & 4,000ft elevation gain)
We embarked on our hike from the Yosemite Valley Visitors Center parking lot on the bike path towards Happy Isles. At Happy Isles we took the old branch of the JMT to the west of the Merced, which was a remarkably quiet alternative to the rather crowded Mist Trail with hoards of day hikers wanting to hike up Vernal Falls. The western branch, while relatively flat for a short while immediately started the steady climb just before joining with the main branch of the JMT past the Vernal Falls bridge.
After very careful planning, clothing just sufficient for the forecasted weather, food with only 1 extra day’s reserve, minimal water to just get us to the top of Nevada Falls, etc., I landed at a pack weight of 28lbs (the lightest pack that I have carried by far). I truly think it paid off and increased my mileage and endurance by at least a couple of miles per day.
As planned our first stop was past the top of Nevada Falls to refresh and replenish our water supply.
At this point we had to decide how much water to carry for the night based on the flow from Sunrise Creek into the Merced. A dry Sunrise Creek would imply carrying anywhere from 6 to 10L of water for the next 2000ft. Given sufficient flow on Sunrise Creek we carried only 1L just to make it to the first night’s camp at a reasonable pace.
Further up at the Half Dome trail junction, we branched off from the more populous trail into a quieter less used path. The hike ended rather eventless pitching our tents near a fire ring on the lateral moraine left by the glacier that once filled the Little Yosemite Valley.
Day 2: Forsyth Trail Junction to Clouds Rest, and then to Sunrise Lakes (Approx 9.5miles & 2,500ft of Cumulative Elevation Gain)
The next morning after restful sleep and breakfast we went on to Clouds Rest. The day was split witnessing two different landscapes — the High Sierra of the south side of the park, and quieter trails for the first part, followed by grandiose views of Tenaya Canyon and the peaks beyond with a lightly crowded Clouds Rest trail for the second part. On the south, views were dominated by Mt. Starr King (a granite dome) and Mt. Clark (also a granite peak but part of the longer Clark Range).
We joined the Clouds Rest trail up to Clouds Rest. Summiting Clouds Rest was one of the highlights of this trip, rising above Half Dome, Clouds Rest is the tallest peak climbing out of the Yosemite Valley and Tenaya Canyon. Clouds Rest being an Arête, the approach to summit was thrilling — a narrow foot trail to the peak with a 5000 ft drop on one side and a 2000ft drop on the other. Given fantastic visibility we could see well beyond the Yosemite Valley to the Central Valley and out to the Coastal Range. It was a very different perspective to see the entire width of the Sierra from crest to valley from a single vantage point.
Leaving Clouds Rest towards Sunrise Lakes was an easy hike along the south wall of the Tenaya Canyon. We hiked down into a small valley and by a small lake, climbed back up towards Lower Sunrise Lake. The mosquitoes were swarming at this point. A campsite by the lake would have been impractical given the mosquito swarms. We found a charming site on the granite dome about 100ft above the lake. Not many mosquitoes, a gorgeous view of Tenaya Canyon on one side and the exfoliated face of Sunrise Mountain on the other. After another scrumptious dinner it was time to retire for the night.
Day 3: Sunrise Lakes to Lower Cathedral Lake via Sunrise High Sierra Camp and Cathedral Pass
An early start to Day 3, we proceeded towards Upper Sunrise Lake, and then over the hump into Long Meadow and the Sunrise High Sierra Camp. This was the point where we once more got into the pristine back country of the Yosemite Wilderness. Closer to the gentle meadows and rugged granite spires high enough to have been Nunataks during the last ice age. The rocks were different from the glacially polished granite. In this area they were mostly granodiorites with many quartz and feldspar stubs that made the studded boulders look very pretty.
The Sunrise High Sierra Camp is located on a shelf — a very pretty spot overlooking the Long Meadow. We stopped here for a quick snack before rejoining the JMT. This stretch of the trail was by far the prettiest segment of the entire hike. The pristine meadow, with views of Columbia Finger up north, the entire Clark Range down south and domes on either side — if there were indeed a heaven this would be it!
Climbing around the Columbia Finger presented a whole new view now of Matthes Crest and the valley of the Cathedral Fork. We took our lunch break on a rock outcropping beneath Columbia Finger.
Completing the turn around Columbia Finger, another beautiful meadow with first views of the Echo Peaks and Cathedral Peak. Went over Cathedral Pass into Upper Cathedral Lake and the adjoining meadow.
So, here’s where things took a bit of a turn… Having gained sufficient ground as planned with enough time to spare, we had several options for the rest of Day 3. An offshoot hike towards Budd Lake, hike to Lower Cathedral lake to enjoy the surroundings, swim, relax, and spend the night, or… continue down to Tuolumne Meadows, spend the night at the backpackers camp at Tuolumne. The last option would allow us to sleep in the next morning, have a relaxed breakfast and explore the Tuolumne Meadows surrounds before catching the 10.30am shuttle.
This last option was enticing and we decided to go that way.
Day 3 (extended): Lower Cathedral Lake and down to the Cathedral Lakes Trail Head at Tuolumne Meadows
Lower Cathedral Lake is an excursion from the JMT — a 1 mile round trip. We left our packs at the junction and went over to Lower Cathedral Lake. Lower Cathedral Lake is at the foot of Cathedral peak. It is a glacial tarn sits in a basin carved out of the same granodiorite except it is offset by a beautiful alpine meadow. The lake itself was a clear deep blue, incredibly pretty and inviting. Just 5.5 miles from Tuolumne Meadows I would highly recommend anyone traveling to Tuolumne Meadows to the Lower Cathedral Lake a visit.
After spending some time relaxing and reflecting at the lake, time to continue down to Tuolumne meadows. The trail glides down between Cathedral Peak and Fairview dome. After a couple of hours we were finally at the trail head and the Tioga Pass Road.
33miles and 8000ft later we finally made it! My longest backpacking trip came to a satisfying and triumphant end…
or did it?
Day 3 (extended and stretched): Cathedral Lakes Trail Head to Tuolumne Meadows Backpackers Camp (2 miles)
I did not realize that the Tuolumne Meadows Backpackers Camp was another 2 full miles down the road from the Cathedral Lakes trailhead. It was a grueling and a very long 2 miles to get to the Backpackers Camp…
… only to read the following posted notice:
“Tuolumne Meadows Backpackers Camp closed for the season. No camping allowed within 4 miles of Tuolumne Meadows. The nearest backcountry camping is a 4 mile hike to the Glen Aulin High Sierra Camp.”
THAT was the most disheartening moment. Very tired and incapable of making any sound decision at that point, yet we forced ourselves to make a quick decision. Given the evening was fast approaching and that I was exhausted beyond words, we decided that the best course of action was to avoid risking any further delay and getting to the parking lot to request a ride back to the valley. A very kind Indian family that was visiting from Texas did give us a ride down to the valley.
This time our adventure did end at 7pm on Day 3 back at the Yosemite Visitors Center Parking Lot. The drive down, cold water on my face and a change of clothes definitely refreshed me, we drove back home that very night after a brief dinner stop. In hindsight we could have hiked the extra 4 miles to Glen Aulin after dinner and a bit of rest — it was downhill and we had a lot of day light.
Like for so many others in this world Yosemite will never fail to awe, how many ever times I visit or however long I stay. As John Muir states it perfectly:
Nowhere will you see the majestic operations of nature more clearly revealed beside the frailest, most gentle and peaceful things.
This is so true given the juxtaposition of the most majestic and rugged cliffs with the most delicate meadows, an adrenalin pumped climb to summits vs. peaceful relaxation by the most beautiful lake, days traversed as planned like clockwork vs. the most unexpected twists — I definitely experienced both sides in many ways on this adventurous trip!
I would first and foremost like to appreciate my wife Rekha’s love, patience and freedom to pursue my hobbies— I was gone for the longest time in the name of pleasure, while she carried the weight of family for these 4 days.
I’d like to thank my backpacking partner Matthias for being patient with me and my fitness and endurance levels. I couldn’t have done this without his company, the great conversations and the wonderful morale boosting rock climbing stories.
Finally I’d like to thank my other backpacking partner Moorthy for his help with the planning leading up to the trip. He unfortunately could not make it due to a family emergency, however I look forward to the next trip hopefully with both him and Matthias.